“Saigon traffic is Vietnamese life, a continuous charade of posturing, bluffing, fast moves, tenacity, and surrenders.”
— Andrew X. Pham from Catfish and Mandala: A Two-Wheeled Voyage Through the Landscape and Memory of Vietnam
One of the hardest aspects of life in Saigon — and Vietnam generally — is dealing with traffic, either as a pedestrian or as a motorbike rider. I’ve heard traffic here best described as a river, you just keep going and don’t stop unless you have to. Crossing the street here is intimidating for the first few times, but then you start to get the hang of it. I’ve read some terrible advice in travel books in the nature of “just keep walking you’ll be fine.” Well, it’s not quite that simple.
Drivers Don’t Want To Hit You
Really, it may seem like drivers don’t care whether they hit you or not but they do. They’re used to avoiding obstacles: taxis, trucks, buses, other motorbikes, stray dogs, bicycles and yes, even pedestrians. So with that in mind, there are a few things you can do to make your street crossing safer and less stressful.
Cross At a Traffic Light
This is not always possible since a lot of intersections either don’t have traffic lights or have blinking yellow lights. You’re more likely to find a traffic circle (roundabout) to keep traffic flowing. So if you’re lucky enough to find a traffic light, pay attention to the green light — there is often a timer telling you how much time you have before the light turns red. Try to cross before your time runs out. A word of warning though. A red light does not mean traffic will necessarily stop. Right turns on red are common. And motorbikes will often just run the light. So don’t think a red light means you can walk across the road without paying attention. Still, this is the best way to cross the road.
Cross At a Crosswalk
If there are no traffic lights, the next best thing is a crosswalk. Traffic will not stop for you in a crosswalk but they are more likely to see you. Being visible to drivers is key to being avoided.
Wait For a Break In Traffic
Wait until there’s an opening. Often, there won’t be enough of a gap for you to make it all the way across before traffic catches up with you but you find a gap big enough to where drivers have time to see you and go around you. Use common sense. Motorbikes can easily steer around you. Tour buses, not so much.
Move Predictably
As I mentioned above, drivers really do want to avoid you. So make it easy for them. Move slowly and predictably and make yourself visible. Don’t panic and run ahead or worse, run back. Make your way slowly and steadily across the street.
The traffic will go around you. Really. Watch the video below to see how it’s done.