Cycling is one of my great passions. I’m no pro, but I love to get out on the road and just ride. I’ve enjoyed cycling trips all over the world: in Vietnam, New Zealand, Australia, and Japan. Recently, a few friends and I signed up for an eight day cycling trip in the Balkans in Bulgaria in September. The Balkans trip is hilly, with an average day climbing 2,500 feet in about 40 miles, and the longest day climbing about 3,000 feet in 45 miles. Not so hard for a cyclist in good shape but I’ve spent months in cities (and off the bike) and am out of shape. So I started looking for a place to train and ended up staying with a friend in Julian, California.
San Diego County has some of the best cycling in the world. You get lots of hill climbing and the views are spectacular, rivaling the south island of New Zealand. There are many challenging rides in the area, but since I’m staying just a few miles from Mount Laguna, that’s the ride I do the most often. My time is still slow but I’m getting better. The ride from my friend’s house to the top of the mountain and back is 37 miles with 3,800 feet of elevation gain and I do that in just under three hours. Not for the casual cyclist. If you start at the intersection of Sunrise highway and route 79, you’ll climb over 1,800 feet in 15 miles, before turning around and coming back.
Or if you’re more ambitious, stop at the top of Mount Laguna for water and snacks and then keep going on Sunrise Highway for an exhilarating descent down the back side of the mountain. This is all downhill, unlike the rolling hills you passed on the way up. At the bottom of the hill, just before I-8, take a right turn onto Old Highway 80 and in just over a mile you’ll be in Pine Valley. I did that ride just yesterday and clocked 57 miles with 6,600 feet of elevation gain in about 5 hours, including a 30 minute break for a huge breakfast at Major’s Diner. Check my Strava feed on the right if you want more details on my rides.
But why stop at Pine Valley? If you’re the type that hates to turn around, you can keep going past Pine Valley on Old Route 80 and turn right onto Route 79, continuing on to make a full loop past Lake Cuyamaca (where you can take a break and Doloris will serve you a delicious, home-cooked meal). But be aware that 79 is a windy, busy road which is why I generally prefer to stay on Sunrise Highway.
In planning your trip, be aware that it gets hot here in the high desert in the summer, you should plan to leave as early in the morning as possible. I start my ride around 6AM. You’ll have to deal with more wildlife that time of day, rabbits and squirrels race across the road and you’ll see the occasional deer as well. I bring two water bottles and fill up at the top of the mountain.
On the climb up the hill, there are several scenic lookouts where you can enjoy the mountain views. There’s a memorial to the Cedar Fire which devastated the area in 2003. You can still see the burned out tree trunks still standing among the new growth, along with a stern warning from our friend, Smokey The Bear.
As you near the end of your climb, you’ll enter the Cleveland National Forest. Here the temperature will drop noticeably and you’ll find lots of welcome shade from the cedar trees. You’ll see a sign for Mount Laguna but there’s a bit of climbing yet to come. When you see the “reduced speed limit ahead” sign, you’ll know you’re almost there.
The village of Mount Laguna is small community, with only 57 inhabitants. There’s a small general store, Laguna Mountain Lodge & Store, open from 9AM, where you can refresh and refuel. There are also two restaurants in town, the Blue Jay Lodge and the Pine House Cafe and Tavern. Don’t count on either of these establishments being open, especially during the week or off season, so check their hours first. Currently, the Pine House Cafe has an espresso bar, open from 8AM. If you can’t find anything open and you need water, there’s a volunteer fire station just over the crest of the hill. They’ll help you out.
If you’re not a cyclist there are also plenty of hiking trails around Mount Laguna and Lake Cuyamaca, including the Pacific Crest Trail. Again, be aware that it’s hot in the summer and you’ll have little to no shade, so dress and prepare accordingly. It’s not uncommon to see (or hear) rattlesnakes which — does it even need saying? — you should avoid at all costs. Enjoy your visit and stay safe!
